Cars, houses, businesses and safes. I have been a locksmith since I was seventeen and the whole shop rides in my van, so I finish the job where you are standing. You get the price from me on the phone, before I drive out.
Mobile locksmith for cars, homes, businesses and safes. Texting reaches me fastest.
I have been a locksmith since I was seventeen and I do every one of these myself, out of a van that carries the whole shop. Nothing gets towed anywhere and nothing waits on a shop appointment.
Keys locked in the car, keys lost completely, or a key that snapped off in the door. I cut and program at your vehicle, wherever it is parked.
Car keys & fobs →
Locked out of your own house, or moved into a place with somebody else's keys still in circulation. Rekeys, new hardware, and getting you back inside.
Home work →
Storefronts, shops, offices and rentals. Master key systems, high security locks, access control, and a rekey the day somebody quits.
Business work →
Combination lost, dial spinning free, or an electronic keypad that died. Safes are my specialty, not a sideline, and I am certified for government safes.
Safe work →
I have been a locksmith since I was seventeen. I worked the Salt Lake market first, saw how that end of the trade treats people, and came back out to Tooele County to do it my own way. The auto shops around here have been calling me for two years because I show up, I do not gouge their customers, and the work holds.
I run the whole thing alone out of one wrapped van. That is the entire company. It also means the person who answers the number on this page is the person who is going to do the work, and I live about fifteen minutes from most of the county.
Getting cleared for government safes is a background check and a specialty, not a sticker you buy. I have worked on safes inside military bases and government facilities that do not let just any locksmith through the gate.
Every one of these is work I do myself. If what you need is not here, call anyway. I would rather tell you it is not my job than take your money for it.
The call most people find this page for. Opened without drilling the lock and without prying your door frame, which is what a coat hanger and a good intention usually cost you. Most take about ten minutes once I am there.
Car keys & fobs →Including all keys lost, where no working key exists at all. The key gets cut from the vehicle itself and programmed on the spot, so there is no tow to a dealership and no day without your car.
Car keys & fobs →
Chip keys, push button start fobs and proximity keys, paired to your vehicle in your driveway. Old fobs can be deleted at the same time, so a key you lost somewhere public stops working.
How programming works →
New pins in the locks you already own, so every old key stops working and your hardware stays. The single most useful thing on this website, and almost nobody knows it is an option. The whole house can go to one key.
Rekeys explained →
Restricted keys that cannot be copied at a hardware store counter, keypads and electronic entry, and master key systems so one key runs the building while each employee key opens only what it should.
Commercial work →
Lost combinations, dead electronic keypads, dials that spin and never catch, and gun safes people inherit with a house. Manipulation first, drilling last, and a new combination set the same visit.
Safe work →Search "locksmith near me" and half of what comes back is a call center in another state. They quote you nineteen dollars, send whoever is nearest, and the guy at your door says three hundred once your lock is already drilled out. It happens constantly, and it is the reason people are nervous calling a locksmith at all.
You hear the number on the phone, not after your lock is already apart. If the job turns out to be different once I see it, I tell you before I start. There is no separate night rate invented on your doorstep and no weekend surcharge that appears when I arrive.
Black and orange, my name across the side, my number on the door. Not an unmarked sedan with a guy who will not tell you what company he works for. If you can read it from across a parking lot, you called a real locksmith.
Not a dispatcher, not a subcontractor, not whoever picked up the ticket. You are talking to the man who is going to do the work, and I live here. Ask me what town I am driving from and you will get a straight answer in one word.
Drilling a lock out is the lazy way and it costs you a new lock on top of the call. I pick and manipulate first, every time, and I drill only when there is genuinely no other way in. On a safe that difference is worth hundreds of dollars.
Expect to be asked for ID, a registration, mail or a lease before I open anything. A locksmith who does not ask that question would open your door for somebody else too. It is a feature, not an inconvenience.
If a job is genuinely a dealer job, or there is a good locksmith closer to you than I am, I will say so instead of driving out and charging you to find out. That costs me a call and keeps me in business for the next fifteen years.
Every picture below came off David's phone. The van you will see coming, the key machines riding in the back of it, and real calls in real driveways.
Lose your only key in Elko, or Ely, or somewhere in the middle of Wyoming, and every local shop is either closed, booked, or does not program keys at all. There are enormous stretches of the west with nobody inside two hours who can cut a modern car key. I load the van and drive.
Covering the county every day. The dark tiles have their own page with the local detail on it.
Out of the county and stuck? That is a real service, not a favor. Call 801-834-0453 and I will tell you straight whether I can get to you and what it costs.
No, and that is the single most expensive mistake people make. I cut and program a new key at your car, in your driveway or wherever it is parked. The dealer route means a tow bill, their key price, and usually a day without your vehicle. This is a house call instead.
Almost certainly. I program transponder keys, push button start fobs and proximity keys across most makes on the road. Tell me the year, make and model when you call and I will tell you straight whether it is a job I can do and what it costs, before I drive out. A few vehicles genuinely need the dealer, and I will say so on the phone rather than after.
Only if there is genuinely no other way in, and I tell you first. Picking and manipulating comes first, every single time. A drilled lock means you are buying a new lock on top of the service call, and that is not how I work.
Rekey, nine times out of ten. Rekeying changes the pins inside the lock you already own so every old key stops working, which is the actual thing you are worried about, and it costs a lot less than new hardware. I can also match every lock in the house to one key while I am there.
No. Lost combinations, dead electronic keypads and old dials that will not catch are routine work for me, and safes are my specialty rather than a sideline. Most get opened without damage and get a new combination the same visit. Send a photo of the safe and the model and you will get a real answer before anybody drives out.
I am one person, and if I am not answering I have both hands inside somebody's dashboard or a safe door. Text the same number and it gets to me faster than anything else. I call back.
Tell me what is locked, what you drive if it is a vehicle, and where you are. You get a real figure on the phone before anybody starts driving.
801-834-0453
